Ride across Canada 2 - Winnipeg to Montreal
Day 27 - Winnipeg to Falcon Lake.
After a good night's rest in Winnipeg, I set off for Thunder Bay, expecting the conditions to change a bit from what I've encountered so far. With some helpful info about the upcoming routes, I left the city in the morning. The city had a bunch of road constructions going on, and I got lost a few times, spending more time than planned just trying to find my way out.
Centre of Canada Park. The Longitudinal Centre of Canada, also known as the Centre of Canada Park, is a significant geographical landmark located in Manitoba, Canada. This park marks the precise point where the longitudinal lines of longitude, dividing the Eastern and Western Hemispheres, converge to indicate the center of Canada.
After leaving Winnipeg, the landscape started to change compared to the wide-open spaces before Winnipeg. The trees on both sides became taller, and thick bushes lined the way. Even though there was traffic, the atmosphere became remote without any shops or buildings along the way. I kept riding, with my goal in mind to reach Falcon Lake and find a free camping spot near the lake.
Falcon Lake Lakeshore Campground. Arriving at the lake in the evening, I wanted to chill by the water, take in the views, and have some snacks. It is like a main tourist spots for people from Winnopeg for weekend drive and there were many tourists around. I couldn't spot any free camping spots due to "no camping" signs everywhere. Just before it got dark, I decided to head to the camping area and set up for the night.
Day 28 - Falcon Lake to Dixie Lake.
Kenora is this small and charming town with all the basics like coffee shops and groceries. I was tempted to stay for a day, loving the vibe, but then I thought, why not use the extra time to ride a bit further without much planning. I ended up heading to Canadian Tire to grab a couple more tubes and some extra food, thinking ahead about the remote areas in the next few days.
“Husky the Muskie” is a large replica of a Muskie fish and is a nationally known symbol for the City of Kenora.
I kept riding and discovered there's a rest area near Dixie Lake where I could set up my tent for the night.
I made it to Dixie Lake and was truly blown away by the view and the rest area. After a long day, I took some time to chill, made coffee, and had snacks by the lake. A few other travelers also stopped to snap some photos. As it got darker, I decided to ride a bit away from the rest area to find something else. A couple of kilometers from the highway, I spotted this off-road trail going to the right. I thought it's worth checking out for a potential nice camping spot. Turns out, it was a great decision because I found a beautiful spot near the lake, making for a really good evening.
Day 29 - Dixie Lake to Rest area near Borups Corners.
The landscapes and conditions were pretty much the same, with many lakes along the way. I always make a stop in the middle or head into the bush to relax and spend some time hoping to spot wildlife, but no luck with moose or bears so far. As evening approached, I began looking for a camp spot and stumbled upon several wild camping options. However, I later learned about a rest area a bit further ahead and decided to reach there before it got dark.
Got to this rest area, and I had plenty of time to cook my dinner, make my usual coffee, and wander around the area. The coolest thing about rest areas is the waste bin with an extra open door—you can keep your food there at night away from the tent to avoid attracting bears. I couldn't spend more time near the table because the moskitos started atatching me and without much options i ended up going inside the tent. Another cool thing about these tables near the tent is you can lie down, and watch the sky or stars at night for as long as you want, soaking in the wild vibes.
Day 30 - Borups Corners to Savanne.
Devykkum campgroundoo???
Found a cool coffee shop in Upsala and hung out there for a bit, checking the map for camping options.
After grabbing a coffee, I hit the road again with the plan to ride until it got dark and find a spot. Luckily, I found a nice spot next to the river where the locals use the path for boat launches.
Early in the morning, a couple of local fishermen came to launch their boat, but there was plenty of space, so I didn't have to move the tent. However, I decided to pack up early after discovering an Indian restaurant at the petrol station a few kilometers ahead.
Day 31 - Savanne to Thunderbay.
Fill 'N Chill Punjabi Restaurant - Went to this Indian restaurant for breakfast and was really pleased to get some hot chai and good food. Met quite a few Indian truck drivers and had some nice chats with the owner.
Central/Eastern Standard Time Zone marker
After passing the time zone marker, the ride started getting pretty challenging. The shoulder space got really narrow, and the traffic got heavy. The side of the road was all sandy and soft, and my tire (35mm wide) wasn't ideal for this kind of terrain. I found myself going off the road many times, especially when I heard big trucks approaching, especially if there was oncoming traffic. I quickly realized the importance of having a mirror and decided to get one in Thunder Bay.
Instead of heading straight to Thunder Bay, I thought it would be a good idea to take a detour to Kakabeka Falls, and it turned out to be a great decision. Besides enjoying the breathtaking waterfall views, I got a break from the busy highway with its limited shoulder space. I spent quality time around the area, making sure my accommodation in Thunder Bay was sorted. Luckily, the host had already accepted my invitation, making it easier to enjoy some peaceful moments near the waterfalls.
I had a flat tire just after leaving the waterfalls, but I quickly changed the tube and continued my journey via Arthur Street to downtown Thunder Bay.
Day 32/33: Before leaving Kakabeka Falls, I already got a message from my host in Thunder Bay, making my ride a lot easier without worrying about accommodation in a big city. I found this cool backyard with a nice view of the garden on the other side. They let me use the kitchen, bathrooms, and a comfy spot to work. After covering a long and remote area, and realizing the next stretch to Sault Ste. Marie was ahead, I decided to take a two-day break. I really wanted to cook some food, hydrate, and rest up. The hosts were experienced cyclists and offered me a lot of help.
I talked to the hosts about the tough times I had in the last two days due to really narrow shoulder space and some sketchy traffic situations. We figured out the importance of having a mirror, and they even decided to give me a good one. They helped me fix it in the perfect spot on the handlebar, and it made a huge difference. They also told me it might be a good idea to change the tire before hitting the next remote area, but I stuck with the same one, thinking I had enough backup tubes. I noticed a weird creaking sound from the right side of the pedal, so we went to a popular bike mechanic in the city. They tried taking off the pedal and putting it back on to see if that fixed the issue, but no luck. They said it would take two more days to get a new set of bearings, but I decided to take a chance and keep going, hoping to fix it in Sault Ste. Marie.
Day 34: Thunderbay to Canyon Country Co-Op, Dorion
I took off from Thunder Bay in the morning without much of a plan for the day, and what a way to kick it off. Right after leaving the house, I got a flat tire, luckily just 1 km away from a bike shop. It felt like it happened for a reason while I was still in the city; otherwise, I might have been changing tubes multiple times in some remote areas. I went to the bike shop and changed new Marathon plus tour and started my ride towards Nippigon.
Cyclists aren't supposed to ride on the highway, and there was this sign right before the start saying just that. But, guess what? There's no other road to head towards Sault Ste. Marie, so that's the only way to go. The crazy number of vehicles and the lack of shoulder space made it super tough to push through. That's when the mirror really came to the rescue, helping me spot those big trucks coming my way. Now, I'm on my way to Terry Fox's statue, where he called it quits on his journey. It's on the other side of the highway.
After dealing with the flat tire and checking out Terry Fox's statue, it got pretty late for me to ride all the way to Nipigon. So, I started looking for a suitable camping spot along the way. As it got darker, I spotted a house a bit off the highway and decided to check if I could camp near it since I was running low on water for the night. They suggested trying the general store a couple of miles ahead and mentioned that they welcome cyclists (Cyclist Haven) to camp for free in the backyard. I made it there, set up my tent before it got too dark, and managed to grab enough drinking water from some caravan travelers parked near my tent.
Day 35: Canyon Country Co-Op, Dorion to Schreiber
It rained all night, and you know how it goes – packing up your stuff and tent in the rain is a whole different experience. The morning was a bit dark and foggy when I hit the road after leaving the campsite, just taking it slow and easy.
Of course! Courage Highway…
I got into the routine of stopping at pretty much every bridge to check out the rivers – turned into a regular thing on my trip. I loved it; plus, it was a good excuse to grab some snacks and enjoy the beautiful nature around. Each river had its own vibe, a unique name, and a bit of magic. If there was a way to get down to the river, I did it to spend some time by the water.
The ride was all wet and chilly, so I thought, "Why not head to Tim Hortons?" Got my usual hot americano and some blueberry muffins. Got a message from my Thunder Bay host saying they arranged for their friend to host me in Schreiber. It's still raining, and those big hills ahead are looking like a tough challenge, but I'm deciding to power through and reach there before it gets dark.
Dealing with a few challenging hill climbs, but the payoff is those beautiful views.
The beauty of a loaded bike against the backdrop of nature is something special. Lake Superior
The Schreiber host was awesome. They let me set up my tent near the garage, and we had a fire in the pit. I had some nice chats with the people staying there. They told me about the fishing spots in the area and even treated me to some homemade Indian food.
Day 36: Schriber to Marathon
After leaving Schreiber in the morning, I took this other route to get to Aguasabon Falls & Gorge.
I strolled on the path to the waterfalls and brought my bike along right up to the viewpoint.
Found this gorgeous spot with a view of Lake Superior on the left, a railway track in the middle, and the road I climbed to get up this hill.
The Schreiber host gave me a contact for a host in Marathon town, a bit off the highway. I thought, why not? So, I rode there and tried reaching out, but they were out of town. Checked around town for camping spots but no luck, so I decided to head back toward the highway. Found a spot near the petrol station with some tables, thought it looked good for camping, got some water, and called it a night there.
After a solid day of riding, sitting at a table like this with a good cup of coffee... you know, at the end of most days, good or bad, I just say, "What a day!"
Just soaking in the beauty of the morning, sipping on my coffee.
The coolest thing about gas station bathrooms? You can roll your bike right in.
Day 37: Marathon to Whiteriver
Had a tough start this morning with thick fog and not enough shoulder space. Then it started drizzling, making visibility really poor. The mirror didn't help much – couldn't see the vehicles from behind, and some parts got tricky. Ended up riding off the road a bunch of times.
Looks like Gloria's Motel lost its sparkle.
I like going on different roads sometimes just to see where they go. Sometimes, you find really nice surprises, like discovering awesome lakes, just like this one.
I got to Whiteriver at about 3 pm and thought of visiting the park. It's known as the birthplace of Winnie the Pooh, that famous children's character. The bear cub inspired the author A.A. Milne. After hanging out near the information center and thinking about staying or riding more, I decided to stay in the park. I found a cool spot to set up my tent under a big shelter they used for a local event the previous day. It turned out to be a good idea because it rained a lot at night.
Day 38: Whiteriver to Wawa
A lovely place for lunch.
Got to Wawa around 2 pm and headed straight to the information center to ask about camping near the park. Unfortunately, they said it's not allowed. I took some time to have lunch and relax there. After researching the area, I found out about a waterfall nearby and thought of checking it out for camping. However, the conditions weren't suitable, so I decided to continue riding and explore other options.
Scenic High Falls, Wawa, Ontario
On my way back from the waterfall, I discovered a place with lots of blueberries all around. I stopped, enjoyed plenty of them, and even collected some for later. As I continued, I came across a river and a nearby off-road path. I thought it would be a great idea to explore and find a nice camping spot.
The off-road trail was really nice, leading through a thick forest towards the river.
Upon reaching the river, the landscape opened up to something like this—plenty of space to camp. I met a family trying to find gold in the river using basic equipment, and they showed me the process. On the other side, many fishes were jumping, making it a good spot for fishing too. Despite being tempted to camp by the river, I decided to go into the bush to find a spot away from rain and wind.
Enjoying the evening after a good day with coffee and the soothing sounds of nature.
Day 39: Wawa to some wild camping spot after Montreal River Harbour
Breakfast time. Strong black coffee, Bread and Nutella.
The starting point of the Orphan Lake walking trail.
The view of Lake Superior was so stunning that I had a hard time focusing on the road. I ended up stopping several times to enjoy the view.
When I stopped at a scenic viewpoint, I met a truck driver from Kerala, and we had a nice conversation. He was driving from Vancouver to Prince Edward Island with some mining tools. He was very generous and gave me a lot of food like biscuits, fruits, and chocolate. People are always willing to help like this, and it's one of the best parts of bike trips.
I found a camping spot with a nice view just before sunset. I went near the lake, enjoyed the food I got from the truck driver, and watched the sunset. Oh, I was really tired, but it was a perfect evening with the beautiful view and good food.
Day 40: Wild camping spot to Sault Ste. Marie.
The host in Thunder Bay recommended The Voyageurs' General Store and Apple Fritter Fryhouse to try their apple fritter. Just as they said, it was very delicious. After many long hours of cycling, it was the perfect sweet treat.
It's a must stop for anyone who loves sweets!
Before reaching Sault Ste. Marie, I had an invitation from a cyclist host, but they canceled at the last minute because of some personal issue. So, I decided to ride all the way to the city and find free accommodation before going to a paid camping spot. Then, I thought of going to a Gurudwara, and luckily, they allowed me to stay in their hall and even gave me a nice dinner.
Day 41: Sault Ste. Marie to Bruce Mines.
The road condition after Sault Ste. Marie was not as good as the other roads in Canada. It was raining, and the narrow shoulder space made it very difficult for me to move forward.
I reached Bruce Mines around 4 pm, and after riding around the town, I really liked the place. It’s a very small and beautiful town. Even though I had more time to move forward, I decided to stay somewhere in the town to enjoy and relax for the day. This spot looked good for camping, but later I saw a signboard saying "No camping" in that area. It started raining after that, and I ended up staying there for a while.
After the rain, I went for a ride around the town and found this camping spot. It was free and in a very nice location. Such a beautiful town, and a relaxing evening.
Day 42: Bruce Mines to Massey
Thessalon Town
Oh Yeah!
Solitude + Perfect road.
Reached Massey just before sunset. I was searching for a free camping spot when I found out about an area near the river. When I reached there, I was thinking of pitching my tent either here or somewhere inside the bush. Later, I decided to camp right near the river, and it turned out to be one of the best ideas.
The night was so beautiful with a lovely view of the sky full of stars. I cooked my dinner, enjoyed it, and kept saying, "What a day!"
Early morning view!
Day 43: Massey to Sudbury
When I was reaching Sudbury, I found out about a park called Fielding Memorial Park and decided to take the Hillfield Cycling Trail to get there. But it turned out to be one of the worst ideas, and I ended up struggling a lot. The conditions were really bad at some points, with steep steps and many big tree roots, which were very difficult to manage with a heavy and fully loaded bike. At one point, I thought I might get stuck there before sunset. But somehow, I managed to reach the park before it got dark.
Thankfully, I reached the park before dark. I decided to wait until it got dark to pitch my tent, so I could stay away from the tourists and locals.
Instead of pitching the tent on the lawn, I chose a corner of the walking path to block the view from the road. It wasn’t a good night because a few vehicles came into the park, and some people walked near my tent. But I didn’t come out of the tent and waited until they left. Sometimes, when I do stealth camping, I end up facing issues like this.
Day 44: Sudbury to North Bay
It was a very beautiful morning as soon as I left Sudbury. Again, one of the best parts of cycle touring is the mornings and the excitement of beginning a new day, with fresh roads to explore and new experiences waiting ahead.
After a few tough days of cycling, I reached North Bay, and my host was waiting for me with a delicious dinner. All I wanted was a good shower and plenty of food. They welcomed me with a lovely room, and we had great conversations about cycling. They also gave me some helpful suggestions for the days ahead.
Day 45: Rest Day - North Bay
Day 46: North Bay to Mackey
Wawa….
I kept riding, thinking about a free place to stay for the day. I saw some paid camping spots near Mackay, but I didn’t want to spend 30-40 dollars on camping.
I reached Stonecliffe around 6:30 pm and found a gas station with some open space next to it. I thought it would be a good idea to ask the owner if I could pitch my tent there and buy some food from the shop. To my surprise, the owner was an Indian family, and they agreed to my request.
I took some time to eat food from the food van and relaxed, chatting with some other drivers. I usually pitch my tent just before dark, so I tried to unpack my tent near the bush. Suddenly, a man from the other side of the road started shouting and threatened me to leave. I went to the owner and told him about it. He said not to worry and decided to talk to that person to make him understand that I was staying there with his permission. But that person was very drunk, and later their whole family started shouting at me. It was already very dark, and the owner came back to me and told me to stay inside the garage. But again, those people came back and threatened me again. So, I decided to leave, but it was super dark, and I didn’t have any light on my bike. The owner told me to go to a camping spot 8-10 km away and gave me a torch, but it was not very good. I couldn’t see anything more than 2-3 meters ahead.
Then I started riding very slowly with the help of that torch. I had to stop every few kilometers because I couldn’t see much. Whenever a vehicle came, I moved away from the road. It was very hard to ride like this, and I started thinking about finding a place to camp in the bush. This was one of the toughest rides, and I had no choice but to keep going. Somehow, I managed to reach Lakeview camping spot. Thankfully, they were open and allowed me to stay in the park.
Day 47: Mackey to Cobden
I started from the Lakeview camping spot towards Ottawa after yesterday’s crazy night ride. But it was not over. After a couple of hours, a vehicle passed by me very closely, and they threw a water bottle, which just missed the front of my helmet. I was really surprised and started wondering why they do such things to cycle tourists. I was very careful after that until I reached the next town.
This rumble strip was a big challenge for cycling. I couldn’t ride on the left side of the white line because of the traffic, and the gravel on the right side was too soft for my 35mm tire. So, I ended up riding through that small lane, almost like in a circus.
The Algonquin Trail. Peaceful and full of wildlife.
Cobden Post office.
When I reached Cobden, I started looking for free camping and explored the main park in the town and the surrounding area. I spent some nice time there with coffee and snacks, but I found out that there was no place to pitch my tent. So, I decided to move forward and found an open space just behind some building.
Day 48: Cobden to Ottawa
There are two hosts ready to welcome me in Ottawa. So, I decided to take it easy and enjoy this cycling trail.
A beautiful cycling trail just before Ottawa.
I reached my host's place just before dark after following a very confusing map route and cycling trails.
Hello Ottawa!
Day 49: West Ottawa to North East Ottawa.
Since I wanted to explore Ottawa and check out the bike trails, I went to the other side of the city and stayed with another host.
A nice gift from my host.
Day 50: Ottawa to Hudson
My host joined me for the first 30 km, and then I continued my journey to Hudson, where I had already arranged a host.
A whole lot of green, your bike, and you.
After this point, the trail became very sandy and soft, so I took a diversion and connected to the paved road to continue to Hudson.
Day 51: Hudson to Montreal
Montreal, here I come again!
Just as I was getting close to the Lachine Canal, I got a flat tire. I spent some time sitting on a bench, fixed it, and relaxed. Riding along the canal brought back memories of my last visit and gave me a feeling of Deja Vu.
Leoine hosted me for two nights because I wanted to take a rest day to explore a bit around Montreal.
I really enjoy fixing and cleaning my bike after a ride, especially on rest days. Still a long way to go...
Day 52: Rest day in Montreal
All set to explore Gaspé Peninsula!
