Ride across Canada 1 - Mile Zero, Victoria to Winnipeg
Mile Zero Monument Victoria - Nanaimo - Horseshoe Bay - Vancouver - Hope - Manning Park - Princeton - Keremos - Kelowna - Revelstoke - Lake Louise - Banff - Calgary - Medicine Hat - Regina - Winnipeg - Thunder Bay - Sault Ste Marie - Sudbury - Ottawa - Montreal - Quebec City - Rivière-du-Loup - Cap Chat - Gaspe - Campbeltown - Bathurst - Dalhousie - Shediac - Charlottetown - Green Gables Heritage Place - Wood Islands - Pictou - Aulds Cove - Iona - Sydney - Channel-Port aux Basques - Stephenville Crossing - Corner Brook - Deer Lake - Grand Falls-Windsor - Gander - Clarenville - Whitebourne - St. John's - Mile Zero Monument St. John's.
"Why you want to cycle across Canada?"
"It's a huge country, and St. John's is really far..."
"Aren't you scared of bears in the woods when you camp?"
"Are you doing this to support a cause or any charity?
During my bike trip, people often ask me these questions. Even if I don't have all the answers, the kindness and support from everyone really warms my heart.
Even though I've taken a few short trips in Canada before, I always wanted to cycle across the entire country. With the pandemic winding down, I was looking for a long bike trip, and since I already had a Canada visa, it felt like the perfect choice. So, I decided to bike all the way from St John's to Vancouver, going from East to West. I didn't really have a clear plan for the route, but I went ahead and booked the flights anyway. As I was getting ready for my trip, it struck me that I needed a Schengen visa because of the two layovers in Europe. So, I had to cancel all my tickets and decided to plan for it in the future.
After dropping the plan for a few days, I couldn't help but think: why wait for another year? That's why I went ahead and booked another ticket, choosing a direct flight from Dubai. However, this time, I made a different decision and chose to start a cycling adventure from Vancouver to St John's, going from west to east.
And that's how the adventure began, as I left Bangalore and headed towards Dubai, Montreal, and eventually Vancouver. When I arrived, Suzzane, my host in Vancouver, warmly welcomed me at the airport and gave me a delightful tour of the city. I stayed in Downtown Vancouver, making it convenient to buy some gear and prepare my bike for the journey. Instead of starting in downtown, I chose to begin from Mile Zero in Victoria and end at Mile Zero in St. Johns.
Day 1: Vancouver downtown to Mile Zero.
I woke up at 4 am to start my journey and realized that I'll have to do this every day for a few weeks. But, I'm ready for it. The traffic was hectic, but fortunately, there was enough space on the side of the road for me to leave the city. I'm going towards Tsawwassen ferry terminal to catch my ferry to Swartz Bay, Victoria.
On my way to Tsawwassen Terminal to catch the ferry to Victoria.
You can catch the ferry for just 20 dollars and bring your bicycle with you at no additional cost! The ride will take approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes.
Once I arrived at Swartz Bay, my host messaged me right away and gave me directions to their place. After sorting out my accommodation, I decided to take my time and explore the scenic ride around lovely Victoria.
I couldn't resist stopping here to have my lunch with such a breathtaking view. While I was eating, a couple of people stopped to talk with me. They were curious about my travels and wished me luck, even sharing some valuable information about the bike paths in Victoria.
My host in Saanich made my stay truly delightful with cozy accommodations and served up some wholesome, delicious meals.
Day 2: Mile Zero to Nanaimo.
Riding through the bike trail towards Mile Zero was an absolute delight. The morning crowd on the trail brought a smile to my face. The trail is beautifully maintained, with clear directions at every turn.
Mile Zero! It felt wonderful to be there and realize that I'm about to start a long adventure journey. I had been imagining being in front of that sign, and here I am.
Mile Zero is the official starting point of the Trans-Canada Highway and the awesome statue of Terry Fox.
Terry Fox was a young and athletic man whose right leg had to be amputated due to cancer. Believing it was his mission to highlight the challenges of other cancer patients, and challenging common beliefs about people with missing legs, Terry declared that he would run across Canada—a distance of over 4,500 miles—in the spring and summer of 1980. He covered two-thirds of the way on his "Marathon of Hope," but the cancer spread, and he passed away. Despite not reaching his destination, Canada saw Terry's effort as a victory, and a statue in his honor stands at the spot he aimed to reach.
Respect…
After spending a good amount of time at Mile Zero, I thought it was time to head to Nanaimo. I had already arranged accommodation with a host and started my ride on some lovely bike trails. However, my bike started giving me some trouble on the way. The chain kept shifting on its own, and it became a struggle to keep moving forward. I decided to check the bike, and soon found out that the crankset is almost completely worn out. It looks like the only solution is to go to Vancouver and get a brand new one. It's crazy to think that I've been struggling to move forward, and it's only the second day of my adventure. I can't help but wonder how I'll make it to St. Johns with my bike in this condition.
It was evening when I finally made it to Nanaimo.
A cyclist from Nanaimo in the bike touring group was kind enough to host me for the night and treated me to a delicious Korean meal for dinner.
Day 3: Nanaimo to North Vancouver.
The next day, I took a ferry from Nanaimo to Horseshoe Bay to reach Vancouver. Right after getting off the ferry, I thought it would be a good idea to go to North Vancouver and find a bike shop. I needed to fix all the problems before I could continue my journey towards the east. Tom and his family were amazing hosts. They set up a lovely tent in their backyard for me to stay in while I sorted out my bike. They even took me to several bike shops in Vancouver to help me find the right crankset and other accessories, like bear spray and a gas canister.
Day 6: Vancouver to Hope.
After spending three days in Vancouver to set up everything, I continued my journey towards the East.
It looks like "Mission and Hope" are also going in the same direction. Even though it started raining in the morning, it didn't bother me much as it truly felt like the official beginning of my adventure.
I found this place to have my breakfast.
I discovered blackberries all over the roadside and ended up grabbing a bunch, making them a major part of my daytime snacks.
Sufficient shoulder width for cycling and a pleasant scenery.
While getting ready for this trip, I got a lot of information about the wildfires happening in Canada. Although my family was worried about the risks of wildfires and bears, my main concern during the journey was the availability of shoulder space on the highways.
I reached 'Hope' just before it got dark and found a camping area. I spent the night camping for $20, and that included the cost of using the shower. I managed to cook my dinner using the last bit of sunlight and even took a walk along the nearby river.
Day 7: Hope to Coldspring Campground, Manning Park.
Leaving 'Hope' early in the morning, I knew I would be dealing with the challenge of climbing big mountains today. The ascent became noticeable after a short distance, and I faced the difficulty early on.
Riding between the wall on the right side and the rumble strip on the left turned out to be quite a challenge. As I faced traffic, I soon understood the importance of having a mirror. I quickly realized that I am not in good enough shape to easily climb these mountains, and it will take me some days to get into better physical condition.
Just a friendly reminder that you're currently in bear country, Stay safe out there!
Day 9: Old Hedley Road East Recreation Site to Peachland.
At first, I had planned to make my way to Kereemos and then continue towards Osoyoos. However, after being informed about the wildfires along that route, I have made the decision to head towards Kelowna and explore the mountains near Banff National Park.
After traveling a few kilometers from Kereemos, I made the decision to take the Great Mountain Road bike path instead of going through the highway to Kelowna.
Choosing this road was such a great decision! As soon as I started traveling on it, it became so peaceful and quiet, with with beautiful valleys and rivers.
During my journey, I faced my first flat tire at one point. I fixed it quickly and continued my travels. Since there was no traffic, I used a part of the road to repair my bicycle.
Just before reaching Pentington, I noticed a series of signboards like this.
My first stop in Pentington was at Tim Hortons, where I spent some time trying to find a suitable host or a nice camping spot. Unfortunately, I had no luck, so I decided to continue my journey and see if I could find a better option along the way.
Okanagan Lake
After I left Pentigton, I came across a road with a lovely lake on the right and a lot of traffic on the left. My idea was to ride until it got dark and find a good spot for camping. It was tough for me to move forward because the space on the side was very narrow due to the wall on my right. I had to balance carefully to avoid hitting my bulky bag and protect myself from the fast-moving vehicles.
I discovered this bike trail on the right-hand side after a couple of kilometers, but it turned out to be quite short. So I decided to continue my journey on the same road.
I searched high and low for a place to set up camp, but unfortunately, I couldn't find a suitable spot.
The view of Okanagan Lake… absolutely breathtaking!
After riding for a few kilometers at night, I finally reached Peachland. Instead of searching for a camping spot, I decided to relax by the lake, enjoying some snacks and friendly conversation with the locals. A few people suggested setting up the tent near the lake after 12 pm, but I wasn't quite sure about that idea. I waited until 1 am, hoping for some luck, but unfortunately, it didn't work out. At that point, I decided to ride along the lake and find a spot away from Peachland. After traveling a couple of kilometers, I came across an abandoned property right in the middle of a residential area. It seemed like the ideal place for some stealth camping. Without making a sound, I pitched my tent and planned to wake up before sunrise.
Day 10: Peachland to Lake Country.
Because I only got 3 hours of sleep last night, I decided to take a short ride and find either a host or a camping spot. Luckily, I found a host near Lake Country right after passing through Kelowna city. While taking a break by the lake on my host's property, a foggy haze suddenly appeared over the lake. Due to a forest fire in the southern region of Pentigton, a thick fog began to settle over the lake.
The moon turned a shade of red due to the wildfire.
Day 11: Lake Country to Revelstoke.
I followed the host's suggestion and chose to go on the Okanagan Rail trail. It turned out to be an amazing ride, and I was thrilled to encounter other daily cyclists along the way.
Railtrail Cafe! Their coffee and muffins are simply amazing!
The conditions were perfect, and I was moving at a comfortable pace. In that moment, I decided to give it my all and head towards Revelstoke.
I stopped for another cup of coffee at a roadside park.
I made a quick stop at this hotel to grab some water for camping, just in case I don't make it to Revelstoke before it gets dark.
Finally, I arrived in Revelstoke just before sunset. What an incredible day it has been! This stretch was the longest of this trip so far, covering a distance of 182 km. I took my time searching for a camping spot close to the town but eventually decided to settle at one of the dedicated camping grounds.
One of the main reasons I chose this campsite was the camp kitchen. It gave me the chance to cook meals and connect with other travelers. I had the opportunity to gather useful information about different routes and friendly hosts along the journey.
Day 12: Revelstoke to Loop Brook Campground.
As soon as I departed from Revelstoke, the ascent became steep. The scenery transformed dramatically, with big mountains, lush green valleys, and beautiful sunshine.
Welcome to the breathtaking Rocky Mountains region!
It's similar to a tunnel, but instead of being dug into the ground, it's a concrete structure that covers the road to shield drivers from avalanches.
Riding through the tunnel was risky because of the fast-moving vehicles and limited space, especially when a large truck passed by. So, I had no option but to push my bike through the tunnel.
A train track that follows the path of a scenic valley and river. I wonder how breathtaking the train journey will be!
I found a beautiful campground in the valley with a nice view of a glacier nearby.
Bear-Proof food storage locker. A bear-proof storage container used in camping areas to store food and other items that might attract hungry bears.
. . Run Forrest? Run!!
Day 13: Loop Brook Campground to Golden.
I arrived in Golden in the evening and discovered a lovely campsite (Golden Municipal Campground) by the river. Luckily, I had the opportunity to visit IGA and purchase food for the upcoming days.
Day 14: Golden to Canmore.
Right after I left Golden, I encountered a challenging uphill journey. It's no wonder they gave it the name ‘Kicking Horse Pass’.
Climbing those big hills feels a bit easier now compared to last week. I'm starting to realize that I'm slowly getting better at this kind of challenge. Plus, having this wide shoulder space makes cycling even more enjoyable.
I crossed the river to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee on the opposite side. I discovered a nice little town with lovely coffee shops.
The cycling experience was perfect, with stunning lights, breathtaking views, and plenty of shoulder space. I couldn't resist stopping multiple times to fully appreciate the beauty of this incredible landscape.
The day was perfect for riding, and my goal was to make it to Banff and locate a spot to camp.
Welcome to Canada!
I waited for a long time, I couldn't click a picture without people around. There was a queue of people waiting to take a picture in front of this name sign.
Banff is a popular tourist destination known for its amazing mountain views. I explored the majority of the streets, taking in the sights and also inquired about camping options. Unfortunately, after contacting a few designated camping spots, I discovered that all the places were already fully booked.
Stopping at Tim Hortons for a cup of coffee, I met a friendly local who recommended I go to the neighboring town called Canmore. Following their advice, I decided to continue my journey, keeping an eye out for potential camping spots along the way in case it got dark.
The sun was setting, yet the scenery remained breathtaking.
I made it to Canmore municipal campground right before nightfall and managed to locate a suitable area to pitch my tent.
I managed to set up my tent last night with only a small amount of light. It was pretty dark, so I couldn't see much of the surroundings. The next morning, I was surprised to find a few other travelers had camped near me.
Day 15: Canmore to Mountain View Farm Camping, Calgary.
I had planned to make my way to Calgary and find a place to stay on the outskirts of the city since I discovered that most of the popular campsites were located there. Instead of dealing with heavy traffic, I opted to turn right and take a parallel road to the main highway. As I continued, the scenery transformed into a long, straight road surrounded by vast, open agricultural lands.
To my surprise, I ended up conquering numerous hills and eventually arrived at a residential area. Along the way, I got lost multiple times due to following bike trails and receiving conflicting directions from people. Despite my efforts to find a suitable and secure spot for wild camping, I couldn't come across anything comfortable. With darkness approaching, I made the decision to head south along the main highway.
Later on, I discovered a campsite a little further from the highway and decided it would be the perfect spot to spend the night. The campsite owners initially quoted a price of $40 per night, but after some negotiation, we settled on $28. The scenery gradually transformed from dense forests and majestic mountains to vast agricultural lands. After conducting research and conversations with people along the way, I mentally prepared myself for a journey across these vast open spaces.
Day 16: Mountain View Farm Camping, Calgary to Gleichen.
The cycling conditions were absolutely ideal, with plenty of shoulder space. I had a blast cruising through the highway, passing by charming small villages and towns.
At first, I noticed countless brown crickets lining the road next to the white line, and it was slightly irritating, but over time, they transformed into an unexpected companion on my journey.
After a fantastic day of riding and covering a good distance, I finally arrived at Gelchen town, which is a little off the highway. To my delight, I stumbled upon a stunning and refreshing free campsite right next to a police station. As soon as I got there, I noticed a few officers nearby and decided to ask them if it was alright to camp there. To my surprise, they were genuinely interested in hearing about my journey and even helped me learn more about the area.
This campsite is situated amidst picturesque agricultural land, offering breathtaking views. Not only that, but it also provides free drinking water and a toilet facility. With plenty of daylight left, I had the perfect opportunity to enjoy the moment by cooking, enjoying coffee sessions, and exploring the surrounding area.
Day 17: Gleichen to Medicine Hat.
After a peaceful night's rest, I began my journey towards Medicine Hat in the morning. It was remarkable to think that even though I had already cycled for a few weeks and covered some distance, I would continue to encounter similar landscapes for thousands of kilometers ahead.
There's something about these wide open lands that I simply love. It's just like being back in Nullarbour, Australia!
After reaching this point, the idea of riding all the way to Medicine Hat crossed my mind. However, I didn't want to risk finding accommodation in the dark, so I decided to search for options beforehand. While googling, I ended up connecting with some wonderful individuals from India. They were genuinely excited and graciously invited me to meet them shortly after I arrived in Medicine Hat.
My eyes were truly mesmerized by the stunning landscape - it felt like pure magic!
What a day! It was such an incredible day of cycling! (208 km). As soon as I arrived in the city, I met my hosts who were incredibly welcoming. They took me to an Indian restaurant and asked if I preferred staying in a hotel room or camping. I decided to go for camping. After enjoying a delicious Indian meal, we visited the site where a new temple will be constructed. Initially, they allowed me to pitch my tent anywhere in the area, but later they suggested I camp inside the shelter. They even provided me with food and water for the night. A big thank you to the MHHA!
Day 18: Medicine Hat to Tompkins.
Welcome to Saskatchewan! The land of Living Skies…
John Woodward Campground, Tompkins
Day 19: Tompkins to Morse.
I was fortunate enough to be invited to breakfast by this family who are from the USA and are currently on their way to Banff for a vacation. They even gave me some snacks to take with me on my travels.
On my way to Morse…
I arrived at Morse and stumbled upon this lovely Municipal Camping ground right by the railway tracks. I decided to take a break and unwind, enjoying the evening with a cup of coffee after a refreshing warm shower. However, the weather suddenly took a turn for the worse, and a crazy rainstorm began.My tent was nearly blown away as I hurriedly moved to the closest shelter. I ended up spending the night there, seeking refuge from the powerful winds.
The next morning, I enjoyed breakfast before getting ready to pack up. I'm so grateful for this shelter, it has provided me with much-needed protection from the wind and rain. As I packed my belongings, I couldn't help but realize that my tent might not be strong enough for the upcoming weather conditions.
Day 20: Morse to Moose Jaw.
Salt lakes can be mistaken for snow-covered landscapes due to their striking resemblance.
After spotting an intriguing name, I made a detour to Chaplin, a quaint little town situated a short distance from the highway. During my visit, I came across a small grocery shop where I had the pleasure of meeting some friendly Punjabi truck drivers. We chatted about my travels and they kindly gifted me two packets of wraps and a big packet of bread. Although it was a bit of a struggle to fit everything into my bag, I was touched by their generosity and thanked them for their kind gesture.
Welcome to Moose Jaw!
During my journey, I had the pleasure of staying with this amazing couple who are known for hosting numerous cyclists passing through Moose Jaw. I had heard glowing reviews about them from fellow hosts and decided to contact them a day before I arrived. They graciously allowed me to set up my tent in their backyard and provided access to their kitchen and bathrooms. It was truly enjoyable to hear fascinating stories about other cyclists who had stayed with them and to browse their comments book. They treated me to delicious meals and served me a delightful cup of coffees.
Day 21: Moose Jaw to Regina.
How about taking a quick break and enjoying a cup of coffee at the deserted gas station?
When I left Moose Jaw, it happened to be a rainy day. Before hitting the highway, I decided to take some time and explore the surroundings of Moose Jaw.
My original plan was to find a free camping spot, but that didn't work out. Instead, I found myself at a dedicated camping site where I could charge my devices and catch up on some work. Unfortunately, it was a stormy night with pouring rain and strong winds. The rain somehow found its way inside, drenching my sleeping bag and a few other belongings. The next morning, I had to spend a good amount of time reorganizing and packing everything before I could leave the campsite.
Day 22: Regina to Grenfell.
The sky was quite dramatic just before the rain started.
Grenfell Recreational Park Campground. After yesterday's rain, I made the decision to leave my sleeping bag and mat out in the limited sunlight to dry. Unfortunately, my plan didn't quite work out, and I ended up sleeping on them in almost the same damp state. The washrooms under the management of the Grenfell community were really impressive.
Since I knew it was going to rain at night, I thought it would be a good idea to set up camp between the trees to shield myself from the strong winds.
Day 23: Grenfell to Manitoba Visitor Information Centre.
Wapela! Riding towards Manitoba province.
Welcome to Manitoba.
Manitoba Visitor Information Centre. This information center provides the opportunity for people to camp in their own backyard while having access to clean restrooms. When I got there in the early evening, I decided to take advantage of the situation and clean my bike.
After experiencing strong winds for a few days during my camping trip, I opted to set up my tent near the center for protection. However, I eventually shifted my tent to the grassy area, which turned out to be a remarkable evening with a beautiful sunset view.
Day 24: Manitoba Visitor Information Centre to Carberry.
Welcome to Elkhorn!
As I was approaching Brandon city, I experienced a flat tyre. Despite knowing that it could happen again, I managed to fix it. I had not changed my tyre since my trip to Australia, assuming that it was still good enough to ride for a few more kilometres. However, considering the remote area after Winnipeg, I decided to purchase a new tyre from Brandon. I found a big bike shop and bought a Shwalbe Marathon plus tyre. After that, I continued my journey towards Carberry.
Another flat tire, and this time it's the front one. While I was fixing it again, a dog sneaked up behind me and surprised me. She appeared tired and hungry, so she started going through my bags. I gave her some bread and water. Then I realized that she must have wandered away from a nearby farmhouse, and it was dangerous to leave her by the highway like that. I tried to lead her away from the road, but she insisted on following me. It broke my heart to leave her behind in that condition. So, I went to the next town, Verden, and got the contact number of the Animal Rescue Team. I shared the dog's photos and location with them. They spread the message through their local Facebook group and informed me about it. Later in the evening, I received a message from the rescue team saying that the owner had found the dog. It made me incredibly happy.
Arriving in Carberry in the evening, I looked for a spot to camp. Some locals suggested the Carberry Fairgrounds, but when I arrived, the gate was closed. However, I managed to sneak in from the other side and found a large area with no one around. I pitched my tent near the restrooms. Later that night, two people approached me and asked who gave me permission to camp there. I told them that I was from India and cycling across Canada. After hearing about my journey, they allowed me to stay and even gave me some advice on watching out for deer and local youths who visit the area at night for party. Thankfully, the night was uneventful.
Day 25: Carberry to Winnipeg.
As soon as I arrived in Portage la Prairie, I received a message from my host in Winnipeg. They provided me with detailed directions to reach their place.
Getting closer to Winnipeg city.
Day 26: Rest day - Winnipeg.
I made it to Winnipeg right before the rain started pouring down. They greeted me with a delicious dinner and we had a great time sharing stories about their bike trips. Knowing about the long and isolated stretch between Winnipeg and Thunderbay, I decided to take a rest day. During this break, I took the opportunity to recharge all my devices and give my bike a good cleaning. I also went out to buy some food items and reorganized my bags for the next leg of my adventure.