Ride across Canada 2 - Winnipeg to Montreal
Day 27 - Winnipeg to Falcon Lake.
After a good night's rest in Winnipeg, I set off for Thunder Bay, expecting the conditions to change a bit from what I've encountered so far. With some helpful info about the upcoming routes, I left the city in the morning. The city had a bunch of road constructions going on, and I got lost a few times, spending more time than planned just trying to find my way out.
Centre of Canada Park. The Longitudinal Centre of Canada, also known as the Centre of Canada Park, is a significant geographical landmark located in Manitoba, Canada. This park marks the precise point where the longitudinal lines of longitude, dividing the Eastern and Western Hemispheres, converge to indicate the center of Canada.
After leaving Winnipeg, the landscape started to change compared to the wide-open spaces before Winnipeg. The trees on both sides became taller, and thick bushes lined the way. Even though there was traffic, the atmosphere became remote without any shops or buildings along the way. I kept riding, with my goal in mind to reach Falcon Lake and find a free camping spot near the lake.
Falcon Lake Lakeshore Campground. Arriving at the lake in the evening, I wanted to chill by the water, take in the views, and have some snacks. It is like a main tourist spots for people from Winnopeg for weekend drive and there were many tourists around. I couldn't spot any free camping spots due to "no camping" signs everywhere. Just before it got dark, I decided to head to the camping area and set up for the night.
Day 28 - Falcon Lake to Dixie Lake.
Kenora is this small and charming town with all the basics like coffee shops and groceries. I was tempted to stay for a day, loving the vibe, but then I thought, why not use the extra time to ride a bit further without much planning. I ended up heading to Canadian Tire to grab a couple more tubes and some extra food, thinking ahead about the remote areas in the next few days.
“Husky the Muskie” is a large replica of a Muskie fish and is a nationally known symbol for the City of Kenora.
I kept riding and discovered there's a rest area near Dixie Lake where I could set up my tent for the night.
I made it to Dixie Lake and was truly blown away by the view and the rest area. After a long day, I took some time to chill, made coffee, and had snacks by the lake. A few other travelers also stopped to snap some photos. As it got darker, I decided to ride a bit away from the rest area to find something else. A couple of kilometers from the highway, I spotted this off-road trail going to the right. I thought it's worth checking out for a potential nice camping spot. Turns out, it was a great decision because I found a beautiful spot near the lake, making for a really good evening.
Day 29 - Dixie Lake to Rest area near Borups Corners.
The landscapes and conditions were pretty much the same, with many lakes along the way. I always make a stop in the middle or head into the bush to relax and spend some time hoping to spot wildlife, but no luck with moose or bears so far. As evening approached, I began looking for a camp spot and stumbled upon several wild camping options. However, I later learned about a rest area a bit further ahead and decided to reach there before it got dark.
Got to this rest area, and I had plenty of time to cook my dinner, make my usual coffee, and wander around the area. The coolest thing about rest areas is the waste bin with an extra open door—you can keep your food there at night away from the tent to avoid attracting bears. I couldn't spend more time near the table because the moskitos started atatching me and without much options i ended up going inside the tent. Another cool thing about these tables near the tent is you can lie down, and watch the sky or stars at night for as long as you want, soaking in the wild vibes.
Day 30 - Borups Corners to Savanne.
Devykkum campgroundoo???
Found a cool coffee shop in Upsala and hung out there for a bit, checking the map for camping options.
After grabbing a coffee, I hit the road again with the plan to ride until it got dark and find a spot. Luckily, I found a nice spot next to the river where the locals use the path for boat launches.
Early in the morning, a couple of local fishermen came to launch their boat, but there was plenty of space, so I didn't have to move the tent. However, I decided to pack up early after discovering an Indian restaurant at the petrol station a few kilometers ahead.
Day 31 - Savanne to Thunderbay.
Fill 'N Chill Punjabi Restaurant - Went to this Indian restaurant for breakfast and was really pleased to get some hot chai and good food. Met quite a few Indian truck drivers and had some nice chats with the owner.
Central/Eastern Standard Time Zone marker
After passing the time zone marker, the ride started getting pretty challenging. The shoulder space got really narrow, and the traffic got heavy. The side of the road was all sandy and soft, and my tire (35mm wide) wasn't ideal for this kind of terrain. I found myself going off the road many times, especially when I heard big trucks approaching, especially if there was oncoming traffic. I quickly realized the importance of having a mirror and decided to get one in Thunder Bay.
Instead of heading straight to Thunder Bay, I thought it would be a good idea to take a detour to Kakabeka Falls, and it turned out to be a great decision. Besides enjoying the breathtaking waterfall views, I got a break from the busy highway with its limited shoulder space. I spent quality time around the area, making sure my accommodation in Thunder Bay was sorted. Luckily, the host had already accepted my invitation, making it easier to enjoy some peaceful moments near the waterfalls.
I had a flat tire just after leaving the waterfalls, but I quickly changed the tube and continued my journey via Arthur Street to downtown Thunder Bay.
Day 32/33: Before leaving Kakabeka Falls, I already got a message from my host in Thunder Bay, making my ride a lot easier without worrying about accommodation in a big city. I found this cool backyard with a nice view of the garden on the other side. They let me use the kitchen, bathrooms, and a comfy spot to work. After covering a long and remote area, and realizing the next stretch to Sault Ste. Marie was ahead, I decided to take a two-day break. I really wanted to cook some food, hydrate, and rest up. The hosts were experienced cyclists and offered me a lot of help.
I talked to the hosts about the tough times I had in the last two days due to really narrow shoulder space and some sketchy traffic situations. We figured out the importance of having a mirror, and they even decided to give me a good one. They helped me fix it in the perfect spot on the handlebar, and it made a huge difference. They also told me it might be a good idea to change the tire before hitting the next remote area, but I stuck with the same one, thinking I had enough backup tubes. I noticed a weird creaking sound from the right side of the pedal, so we went to a popular bike mechanic in the city. They tried taking off the pedal and putting it back on to see if that fixed the issue, but no luck. They said it would take two more days to get a new set of bearings, but I decided to take a chance and keep going, hoping to fix it in Sault Ste. Marie.
Day 34: Thunderbay to Canyon Country Co-Op, Dorion
I took off from Thunder Bay in the morning without much of a plan for the day, and what a way to kick it off. Right after leaving the house, I got a flat tire, luckily just 1 km away from a bike shop. It felt like it happened for a reason while I was still in the city; otherwise, I might have been changing tubes multiple times in some remote areas. I went to the bike shop and changed new Marathon plus tour and started my ride towards Nippigon.
Cyclists aren't supposed to ride on the highway, and there was this sign right before the start saying just that. But, guess what? There's no other road to head towards Sault Ste. Marie, so that's the only way to go. The crazy number of vehicles and the lack of shoulder space made it super tough to push through. That's when the mirror really came to the rescue, helping me spot those big trucks coming my way. Now, I'm on my way to Terry Fox's statue, where he called it quits on his journey. It's on the other side of the highway.
After dealing with the flat tire and checking out Terry Fox's statue, it got pretty late for me to ride all the way to Nipigon. So, I started looking for a suitable camping spot along the way. As it got darker, I spotted a house a bit off the highway and decided to check if I could camp near it since I was running low on water for the night. They suggested trying the general store a couple of miles ahead and mentioned that they welcome cyclists (Cyclist Haven) to camp for free in the backyard. I made it there, set up my tent before it got too dark, and managed to grab enough drinking water from some caravan travelers parked near my tent.
Day 35: Canyon Country Co-Op, Dorion to Schreiber
It rained all night, and you know how it goes – packing up your stuff and tent in the rain is a whole different experience. The morning was a bit dark and foggy when I hit the road after leaving the campsite, just taking it slow and easy.
Of course! Courage Highway…
I got into the routine of stopping at pretty much every bridge to check out the rivers – turned into a regular thing on my trip. I loved it; plus, it was a good excuse to grab some snacks and enjoy the beautiful nature around. Each river had its own vibe, a unique name, and a bit of magic. If there was a way to get down to the river, I did it to spend some time by the water.
The ride was all wet and chilly, so I thought, "Why not head to Tim Hortons?" Got my usual hot americano and some blueberry muffins. Got a message from my Thunder Bay host saying they arranged for their friend to host me in Schreiber. It's still raining, and those big hills ahead are looking like a tough challenge, but I'm deciding to power through and reach there before it gets dark.
Dealing with a few challenging hill climbs, but the payoff is those beautiful views.
The beauty of a loaded bike against the backdrop of nature is something special. Lake Superior
The Schreiber host was awesome. They let me set up my tent near the garage, and we had a fire in the pit. I had some nice chats with the people staying there. They told me about the fishing spots in the area and even treated me to some homemade Indian food.
Day 36: Schriber to Marathon
After leaving Schreiber in the morning, I took this other route to get to Aguasabon Falls & Gorge.
I strolled on the path to the waterfalls and brought my bike along right up to the viewpoint.
Found this gorgeous spot with a view of Lake Superior on the left, a railway track in the middle, and the road I climbed to get up this hill.
The Schreiber host gave me a contact for a host in Marathon town, a bit off the highway. I thought, why not? So, I rode there and tried reaching out, but they were out of town. Checked around town for camping spots but no luck, so I decided to head back toward the highway. Found a spot near the petrol station with some tables, thought it looked good for camping, got some water, and called it a night there.
After a solid day of riding, sitting at a table like this with a good cup of coffee... you know, at the end of most days, good or bad, I just say, "What a day!"
Just soaking in the beauty of the morning, sipping on my coffee.
The coolest thing about gas station bathrooms? You can roll your bike right in.
Day 37: Marathon to Whiteriver
Had a tough start this morning with thick fog and not enough shoulder space. Then it started drizzling, making visibility really poor. The mirror didn't help much – couldn't see the vehicles from behind, and some parts got tricky. Ended up riding off the road a bunch of times.
Looks like Gloria's Motel lost its sparkle.
I like going on different roads sometimes just to see where they go. Sometimes, you find really nice surprises, like discovering awesome lakes, just like this one.
I got to Whiteriver at about 3 pm and thought of visiting the park. It's known as the birthplace of Winnie the Pooh, that famous children's character. The bear cub inspired the author A.A. Milne. After hanging out near the information center and thinking about staying or riding more, I decided to stay in the park. I found a cool spot to set up my tent under a big shelter they used for a local event the previous day. It turned out to be a good idea because it rained a lot at night.
Day 38: Whiteriver to Wawa
A lovely place for lunch.
Got to Wawa around 2 pm and headed straight to the information center to ask about camping near the park. Unfortunately, they said it's not allowed. I took some time to have lunch and relax there. After researching the area, I found out about a waterfall nearby and thought of checking it out for camping. However, the conditions weren't suitable, so I decided to continue riding and explore other options.
Scenic High Falls, Wawa, Ontario
On my way back from the waterfall, I discovered a place with lots of blueberries all around. I stopped, enjoyed plenty of them, and even collected some for later. As I continued, I came across a river and a nearby off-road path. I thought it would be a great idea to explore and find a nice camping spot.
The off-road trail was really nice, leading through a thick forest towards the river.
Upon reaching the river, the landscape opened up to something like this—plenty of space to camp. I met a family trying to find gold in the river using basic equipment, and they showed me the process. On the other side, many fishes were jumping, making it a good spot for fishing too. Despite being tempted to camp by the river, I decided to go into the bush to find a spot away from rain and wind.
Enjoying the evening after a good day with coffee and the soothing sounds of nature.